A selection of vintage cameo jewellery from throughout the 20th Century.
Cameo is a method of carving an object to produce a raised positive relief image. Historically, the image was also a contrasting colour to the background. Originally they were made from semi-precious stones but mollusk shell and glass became more common for cheaper production.
A variation of this is an incrustation or sulphide, which is when a cast is made from a carving and a ceramic cameo produced and then encased in glass. These were popular from the late 18th to the late 19th century.
In ancient times, they were worn as signet rings or were just objets d’art. Classically, the designs carved were either scenes of Greek or Roman mythology or portraits of rulers. Antique cameos, some from as far back as 2000 years ago, are displayed in museums around the world.
Queen Victoria was a major proponent of the cameo trend in 19th century Britain which ushered in an era of cameo mass production. In the latter half of the 19th century, cameos became a popular souvenir of the Grand Tour among the upper class. Cameos were being carved of petrified lava from the ruins of Pompeii, which had been discovered in the 18th century. Napoleon founded an apprentice school in Paris to ensure a new generation of cameo carvers.
Today, the term cameo is used much more loosely and can be seen describing simply an image of a head in an oval frame in any medium. Cameos can be assembled from different materials and they can also be dyed. Many modern agate cameos are carved using the Ultrasonic mill.
New, vintage and antique cameo jewellery remains popular today and can still be seen on fashion runways and celebrities like Rihanna, Nicole Kidman, Cate Blanchett and Sarah Jessica Parker.
In film, Scarlett O’Hara wore a cameo necklace in Gone with the Wind as did Catherine Sloper in The Heiress. Elena Gilbert wore one in The Vampire Diaries.
Their value is dependent on material, setting, intricacy of the carving, historical significance and condition.
