This tag appears on a few of the pieces in our collection. We thought we'd dig into it and share its meaning here. Hopefully we can spread the message of FOGA to anyone else out there that happens across their tag. Read the story below to find out all about it!
To combat design theft by garment manufacturers, a group of fashion designers got together in 1932 to form the anti-piracy “Fashion Originators Guild of America” (FOGA), with Maurice Rentner serving as the group’s first president. Members made and sold medium and high-priced women’s dresses to retailers who selected designs from New York City showrooms. Members sought to “combat and, if possible, destroy all competition from the sale of garments which are copies of their original creations." A piracy committee was set up to establish which designs registered by its members were wholly original. Members then refused to sell to retailers which were found to be selling copies of its members’ original designs. Shoppers all over the country were employed as scouts to watch out for such copies/knock-offs.
Retailers signed contracts with the guild that pledged they would only sell original creations from its members. If they failed to do so, they would receive a “red card” which would then forbid other members from dealing with them. Approximately 12,000 retailers signed up.
Although the guild and its boycott programme was effective, they ran into trouble with the Federal Trade Commission by 1936. In 1941, a Supreme Court ruling held that the guild’s practises violated the Sherman Antitrust Act (1890), which is a law that prohibits monopolies and other anti-competitive practices that restrain trade or commerce. The court found that the principles of the guild put “into their hands collectively the power to control the supply, and with it the price” [of goods], to the detriment of consumers. It also found that the guild trenched upon the power of the national legislature when dealing with interstate commerce. This effectively ended the restrictions put in place by the guild, which were shown to be unlawful.
You can read the official 1941 supreme court case here:
https://supreme.justia.com/cases/federal/us/312/457/
During its nine years of operation, thousands of designs were registered by over 100 designers. A registration number can often be found on FOGA clothing labels.
What do you think? Were the guilds' practises ethical? Or was the government right to curtail them in favour of the customers "right" to the best price? Either way, it is a fascinating history and a great tool in the vintage enthusiasts toolbox in dating vintage garments as this tag will place the item right between the years of 1932 and 1941.
