Even though there have been countless adaptations of Emily Brontë's Wuthering Heights over the last hundred years, we counted that there have only been 4 English Language feature film adaptations in total, not including the lost silent 1920 version or the abysmal 2022 low budget version. Here, we take a quick look back at the costume design work in each of these films.
A note on period before we begin: The book opens in 1801 and the story is told in flashback, taking place from 1770 to 1801. Costume-wise, this means we should see two distinct eras in clothing. Also note that the whole novel is set at two big manor houses in the wild Yorkshire moors, with one family being wealthier than the other, which plays a major role in the costumes.
Wuthering Heights 1939
Starring Merle Oberon and Laurence Olivier.
Directed by William Wyler (Ben Hur, Roman Holiday, Funny Girl).
Costumes by Omar Kiam (Les Misérables 1935, A Star is Born 1937).
This version only depicts the first 16 chapters of the novel (the first generation).
The opening title card states that this film takes place 100 years before (which would bring it back to 1839) with Nelly then picking up her tale 40 years prior to that (1799), which then makes Cathy and Heathcliff adults in the 1820s. Despite this random timeline, the costumes take cues from the same world as Gone With The Wind (which came out the same year and is set in the 1860s), and of course from the 1930s decade in which it was made- which is especially evident in the more casual “sportswear” costumes. The intention with it all is quite unclear, but there are nonetheless some beautiful pieces.
There are a number of costumes worn by Merle as Cathy in this adaptation which seem to have been referenced by Jacqueline Durran in the new 2026 movie.
There is a dress that has a criss-cross design:
One with silver metallic elements and "artificial" looking fabric:
One with a floral pattern:
And also a fur trimmed hooded cape and muff:
Margot Robbie wears similar attire in the new adaptation. Do you think these are intentional references to this film version from Jacqueline Durran or mere coincidence? It’s also interesting that director Emerald Fennell and Durran have referenced Gone With the Wind specifically in their film.
Wuthering Heights 1970
Starring Timothy Dalton and Anna Calder-Marshall.
Directed by Robert Fuest (The Abominable Dr.Phibes, The Avengers 1968).
This version only depicts the first 16 chapters of the novel, taking the same approach as the 1939 film.
The credits cite "Nathans" as being responsible for the costumes. This company was founded by Lewis Nathan and it was the second largest and longest established costume house in London at the time. It merged with rivals Bermans in 1971 to then become the largest costume company in the world. Angels costumes acquired their massive stock for £750,000 in 1992.
No official designer is listed in the credits.
It is correctly set in the 18th century and features a much more realistic, restrained and subdued aesthetic compared with the 1939 version. It was also shot on location in Yorkshire, making it a much more grounded adaptation. However, there are lots of details linking to the period in which it was made (1970), like leather vests and peasant blouses.
Emily Brontë’s Wuthering Heights 1992
(They legally had to add the “Emily Brontë’s” to the title of this one because of MGM owning the name from the 1939 version).
Starring Ralph Fiennes (in his debut film role) and Juliette Binoche.
Directed by Peter Kosminsky.
Costumes by James Acheson (Dangerous Liaisons, The Last Emperor).
The first time audiences get the full book in a film adaptation.
This seems to be many people’s favourite film version and it is certainly the best in terms of costume accuracy and interest. Correctly set between the 1870s and 1801, with the caveat that at the beginning of the movie, Cathy Linton (Cathy junior, also played by Juliette Bincohe just to make it more confusing!) is wearing an 18th century dress in 1801- perhaps meant to show that Heathcliff has not afforded her any new clothes and she has to wear her mother’s old ones from 20 years previous? But then she is shown wearing 1800s/regency empire-waist gowns and pelisse’s in the flashbacks. Did Heathcliff make her get rid of them?
Cathy Jr. in an empire waist gown:
Cathy Jr. in 18th Century dress at the end of the movie:
We meet young Cathy Earnshaw at the beginning of the movie wearing something of a similar style. This could be intentionally linking her back to her mother, but finishing with a happier ending for her and her love.
There’s lots of stripes in this movie, especially on Cathy Earnshaw, who wears an array of pretty Georgian gowns.
Sinead O’Connor appears at the end of the film as the story’s author- Emily Brontë, wearing an appropriate 1840s dress, with the novel having been published in 1847.
Composer Ryuichi Sakamoto’s theme is one of the most beautiful ever!
Wuthering Heights 2011
Starring Kaya Scodelario and James Howson.
Directed by Andrea Arnold (Fish Tank, American Honey, Big Little Lies).
Costumes by Steven Noble (The Theory of Everything).
Again, only depicts the first 16 chapters of the novel.
This adaptation seems to be set in the late 1700s up to the 1810s. We see Cathy running around in various jackets and long, muddy-hemmed skirts most of the time.
When she marries Edgar, she wears “nice” 1810s-style empire waist dresses that still look somewhat bedraggled.
It’s certainly a much more stripped down look at the story with minimal costumes in comparison to some of the earlier versions, with muted tones while still maintaining texture, interest and character, as well as giving a more realistic feel. However, where this movie excels is in the atmosphere it evokes, primarily through its cinematography.
Isabella Linton:
